I know that the picture doesn't look like much but, I found this plant at a little landscaper supply store. It is called Culantro and it tastes just like Cilantro. I am really excited about it. Here in Houston we can't grow cilantro all year long. I was told that culantro can be grown all year long. We planted one of these at a clients house and it looks really good. This one was in the sun too much and it did dry out for one day so that is why the leaves are a bit yellow. I took this picture a couple of days ago and now it looks even better with new leaves coming up. I did move it out of the sun and have been keeping it watered. The growers for this particular plant is Bonnie. This link takes you to the culantro page...http://bonnieplants.com/growing/growing-culantro/. Culantro does bolt like cilantro when it gets hot and too sunny for the plant. I am noticing that where I live it is doing great with just about 3-4 hours of sun a day.
I have read that it does not have a good shelf life so you only need to pick what you want to cook with that particular day.
I plan on testing this plant to see how it does throughout the year, especially when we get really hot. (101+ degrees.) Stay tuned and I will give you reports. I hope this plant is a keeper. It would be nice to have a plant with that kind of flavor to use all year long. I know you can get it in the store but I love the fact that we can go into the garden and pick what we want to eat. Yum.
Monday, April 30, 2012
Friday, April 27, 2012
Product Review- Element SoakerPro Soaker Hose
Last year my soaker hose finally went to soaker hose heaven. Really that hose lasted for about 15 years for us so I think I got my monies worth. Towards the later half of last summer here in Texas you could not find a soaker hose anywhere. Everyone was buying them up trying to save money watering especially since most of my area was under watering restrictions. Almost as an impulse buy I grabbed one at the store yesterday. I have wanted to get another one for a while so I guess it wasn't that much of an impulse buy. Anyway, I bought this hose at Walmart. It is called Element SoakerPro by Colorite Plastics Company. Made right here in the Good Ole USA in New Jersey. Their website is http://www.elementhose.com/hoses/soaker-pro/. I like that this hose is made from 65% recycled rubber. But my favorite part is that it is Lead Free making it safe to use on your fruits, veges and herbs.
Today I hooked it up and I love it. It works really good with the water making it all the way to the end of the hose. That is a problem that I had with my other soaker hose. My old hose wasn't as long as this 50 feet beauty. It definitely goes a long way. It says that you can put 3 of the hoses together for really large areas. I will probably buy another one before we really have to start watering here so I will update later and give feedback on how well it works with 2 of them hooked up together.
Today I hooked it up and I love it. It works really good with the water making it all the way to the end of the hose. That is a problem that I had with my other soaker hose. My old hose wasn't as long as this 50 feet beauty. It definitely goes a long way. It says that you can put 3 of the hoses together for really large areas. I will probably buy another one before we really have to start watering here so I will update later and give feedback on how well it works with 2 of them hooked up together.
Thursday, April 26, 2012
How To Correctly Plant A Plant In The Ground
I was planting a few plants in the ground the other day with my son and I realized that I needed to give him a few pointers on planting plants in the ground. At first I sat down next to him and said plant this basil here when he looked up at me and asked what he needed to do exactly. He knows how I feel about my plants so he wanted to do a good job. I have planted many plants in my 20 something years of gardening and just didn't realize that there are a few things everyone should know about planting.
When you get ready to plant something you first want to clear the space of weeds. I am always fight weeds so I usually need to pull a few out of the way for my new little (or big) plants that I want to go into that space. Sometimes, if the ground is to hard to pull the weeds out of or to dig the hole to put your plant in, you will need to water the area to make it easier to work. Do this and let the water soak in. Usually when I know that I have to weed an area and it is dry, I will water it and then come back an hour or two later to clean it up.
Next, you get your shovel for big plants and a hand held trowel or what I call "my digger". I dig a hole twice the size of what the plant is. When I mean the size of the plant- I mean the size of the soil that is in the pot you are about to plant. Only do this wide not too deep. You are going to plant the root ball or dirt ball as my son calls it just deep enough to add a little fertilizer to help the plant grow when it is in the ground. I always put a little bit of soil on top of the fertilizer so the fertilizer will not burn the roots of the plant. After this step you are ready to plant your plant.
Grab your plant. What I do when I am trying to get it out of the pot is, if it is small enough that your hand can hold the pot upside down, turn the pot upside down and use your hand to hold the plant where it will not come out of the pot, fall to the ground and crush the top of the plant. Then if it hasn't slide out, I will gently squeeze the pot or gently shake it while holding it upside down to get it out. After it is out of the container I always take the root ball (or dirt ball) and rub my fingers on the outside of the soil to break up the roots that have coiled themselves within the container. Doing this helps the roots to start growing out and not continue to grow in a circle. You are not going to kill the plant if you do this. After this step I put the plant into the hole making sure that the top of the soil where the plant is coming out of the soil is level with the top of the ground. It is better to plant it a little too high than plant it too low in the ground. If you plant it low in the ground then the plant may rot and die. Adjust the soil level in the bottom by adding or taking out soil to make the plant level.
Time to fill the soil back in around the plants roots. Gently push the soil down getting out all of the big air pockets. It is also a great idea to mulch after the plant is planted. This will help bring nutrients back into the ground and help conserve water.
That is the basics. Happy planting.
When you get ready to plant something you first want to clear the space of weeds. I am always fight weeds so I usually need to pull a few out of the way for my new little (or big) plants that I want to go into that space. Sometimes, if the ground is to hard to pull the weeds out of or to dig the hole to put your plant in, you will need to water the area to make it easier to work. Do this and let the water soak in. Usually when I know that I have to weed an area and it is dry, I will water it and then come back an hour or two later to clean it up.
Next, you get your shovel for big plants and a hand held trowel or what I call "my digger". I dig a hole twice the size of what the plant is. When I mean the size of the plant- I mean the size of the soil that is in the pot you are about to plant. Only do this wide not too deep. You are going to plant the root ball or dirt ball as my son calls it just deep enough to add a little fertilizer to help the plant grow when it is in the ground. I always put a little bit of soil on top of the fertilizer so the fertilizer will not burn the roots of the plant. After this step you are ready to plant your plant.
Grab your plant. What I do when I am trying to get it out of the pot is, if it is small enough that your hand can hold the pot upside down, turn the pot upside down and use your hand to hold the plant where it will not come out of the pot, fall to the ground and crush the top of the plant. Then if it hasn't slide out, I will gently squeeze the pot or gently shake it while holding it upside down to get it out. After it is out of the container I always take the root ball (or dirt ball) and rub my fingers on the outside of the soil to break up the roots that have coiled themselves within the container. Doing this helps the roots to start growing out and not continue to grow in a circle. You are not going to kill the plant if you do this. After this step I put the plant into the hole making sure that the top of the soil where the plant is coming out of the soil is level with the top of the ground. It is better to plant it a little too high than plant it too low in the ground. If you plant it low in the ground then the plant may rot and die. Adjust the soil level in the bottom by adding or taking out soil to make the plant level.
Time to fill the soil back in around the plants roots. Gently push the soil down getting out all of the big air pockets. It is also a great idea to mulch after the plant is planted. This will help bring nutrients back into the ground and help conserve water.
That is the basics. Happy planting.
Monday, April 23, 2012
Last of the Cool Weather
This morning I had the windows open and was enjoying the last of the cool weather that we will get until late September or October. And when I mean cool weather, I mean 68* mornings. Our high temperature for the day is 78. I know that is not cool for some of you but it is perfect for me. It may sound silly but I like to open the windows up in the morning and let the house get pretty cool so the air conditioner doesn't have to come on all day. I hate having to pay for electricity. It's also good for the environment to not have the a/c going all day. Too bad that is exactly what happens in the summer here. I hope this year's summer is not as hot as last year's summer. I just wish that we get some rain this summer. I am not sure how Texas will do with 2 summers back to back with no rain, even no clouds. A nice cloud cover will do from time to time. And the plants would be pretty appreciative also.
Enough of the ranting about nice weather or really lack of nice weather. Today I am going to feed the tomatoes and peppers. If you didn't know it- they are both heavy feeders. They can get fertilizer burn if you put too much fertilizer on them but you are more likely to under-feed them than over-feed them. Also, tomatoes are foliar feeders meaning they can take in nutrients from liquid fertilizers through their leaves.
This past weekend I have a show that I had a booth at for the whole weekend. So last week I wasn't able to do any gardening since I was trying to get ready for the show. With that being said, I am about to spend a few needed hours in my backyard. I am sure my kids and husband will have to drag me into the house so I can feed them for dinner. See you later.
Enough of the ranting about nice weather or really lack of nice weather. Today I am going to feed the tomatoes and peppers. If you didn't know it- they are both heavy feeders. They can get fertilizer burn if you put too much fertilizer on them but you are more likely to under-feed them than over-feed them. Also, tomatoes are foliar feeders meaning they can take in nutrients from liquid fertilizers through their leaves.
This past weekend I have a show that I had a booth at for the whole weekend. So last week I wasn't able to do any gardening since I was trying to get ready for the show. With that being said, I am about to spend a few needed hours in my backyard. I am sure my kids and husband will have to drag me into the house so I can feed them for dinner. See you later.
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
Best Citrus for Texas
The Gulf Coast area is a great place to grow citrus. We have the perfect climate of high humidity, sunlight, and heat. Oh course we would love to have a little less of the heat and humidity but the citrus love it. Most citrus grow into large bushes or small trees. If you don't want a big citrus plant then it can be grown in a container. This can be a bonus during an early freeze when you need to protect your citrus by bringing it into the garage when that cold snap comes. You will want to bring the citrus to a warmer area when it gets 26 degrees or lower. But some citrus have been know to survive a colder freeze than that.
Best varieties for South Texas:
(The * means that it is virus-free)
Oranges:
Tomango
Louisiana Sweet
Naval
Marrs
*Pineapple
*Hamlin
Republic of Texas
Grapefruit:
Bloom Sweet
Golden
*Rio Red
*Star Ruby
Marsh
Ruby Red
*Henderson
Kumquats:
Chang Chou
Nagami Kumquat
*Meiwa Kumquat (seedless)
Acid Citrus:
*Mexican Lime
Eustis Limequat
Sunquat
Yuzuquat
Calamondin
Meyer Lemon
*Ponderosa Lemon
Eureka Lemon
Thomasville Citrangequat
Mandarins/Tangelos:
Orlando Tangelo
Fairchild Tangerine
Clementine Tangerine (Monreal)
Changsha Tangerine
Satsuma
There are many more that can be added to this list. Really it is a matter of taste. Get the ones you like the best. Try to wait until March to add your plants in the garden. You will want to wait till all danger of frost has past. Normal spacing between trees is 15 to 20 feet.
Fertilize the trees with a complete fertilizer such as a 13-13-13 in late January or early February, at a rate of one-and-a-half pounds per year age of tree up to 12 years. Water regularly and make sure that your water source is not high in sodium. Citrus love sunshine. Provide 5 to 6 hours of sunlight a day.
The next thing you do is sit back and wait for your delicious fruit to grow and flourish. Enjoy.
Best varieties for South Texas:
(The * means that it is virus-free)
Oranges:
Tomango
Louisiana Sweet
Naval
Marrs
*Pineapple
*Hamlin
Republic of Texas
Grapefruit:
Bloom Sweet
Golden
*Rio Red
*Star Ruby
Marsh
Ruby Red
*Henderson
Kumquats:
Chang Chou
Nagami Kumquat
*Meiwa Kumquat (seedless)
Acid Citrus:
*Mexican Lime
Eustis Limequat
Sunquat
Yuzuquat
Calamondin
Meyer Lemon
*Ponderosa Lemon
Eureka Lemon
Thomasville Citrangequat
Mandarins/Tangelos:
Orlando Tangelo
Fairchild Tangerine
Clementine Tangerine (Monreal)
Changsha Tangerine
Satsuma
There are many more that can be added to this list. Really it is a matter of taste. Get the ones you like the best. Try to wait until March to add your plants in the garden. You will want to wait till all danger of frost has past. Normal spacing between trees is 15 to 20 feet.
Fertilize the trees with a complete fertilizer such as a 13-13-13 in late January or early February, at a rate of one-and-a-half pounds per year age of tree up to 12 years. Water regularly and make sure that your water source is not high in sodium. Citrus love sunshine. Provide 5 to 6 hours of sunlight a day.
The next thing you do is sit back and wait for your delicious fruit to grow and flourish. Enjoy.
Tuesday, April 10, 2012
Texas Bluebonnet Time
It has been a wonderful season for bluebonnets this year. I know the spring rains that we have had played a big part in making this year so beautiful. I live right outside of Houston so really it is not too far for me to go to see the bluebonnets in the hill country. But at my house you don't have to go far at all. I planted bluebonnet seed in the garden right after we put the soil in (our backyard was nothing but builders sand when we moved in). And every year since then we have more and more bluebonnets that spread and pour into the lawn and garden pathways. I love going outside and looking at a sea of blue and pink and maroon bonnets. Yes, I said pink and maroon bonnets. They are not as prolific as the blue ones but they still come back every year. One year I decided to add some Aggie bonnets, which are maroon for Texas A&M University. They were actually developed by A&M. I was told that they would cross pollinate with the bluebonnets but I didn't care. As the next year rolled around I had a few maroons bonnets and a few pink ones mixed in with a bunch of blue ones. They are really a sight to see. I love springtime at my house. I end up spending more time outside than I do inside. (The house doesn't get a good spring cleaning where I live, but the yard does.)
So here is how you grow them if you would like to add them to your garden. The variety that I have is Lupinus texensis. These plants are Texas natives, which I love. They bloom from March-May. Although at my house they tend to bloom early but they finish early also. It loves prairie, pastures, hillsides and slopes to call home. It doesn't require much water to survive. I do notice that when I don't splash it down with the water hose from time to time that it will get spider mites.
I don't use any chemicals on it since bees love bluebonnets. It is also the larval host plant to the Elfin butterfly and the Hairstreak butterfly. The bluebonnets are susceptible to herbicides. So please don't spray anything on them or near them. If you do spray them, then that chemical can affect any of the bees and butterflies that drink its nectar. Please be careful.
You can add plants directly to your garden or you can easily sprinkle the seeds in the fall. What I do is every year after the plant has finished flowering I wait for the plant to die. The seed will mature on the dying plant and then when they are ready to come out of their pods they pop out and go flying to their new location. Yes the plant is ugly and doesn't look pretty at all but I will never have to buy more plants or seeds at the store again. It is that easy. Bluebonnets are a great wildflower to have in the garden. Every year I truly enjoy going out and watching the bees and butterflies hovering around the fragrant flowers. It is an awesome sight to see.
So here is how you grow them if you would like to add them to your garden. The variety that I have is Lupinus texensis. These plants are Texas natives, which I love. They bloom from March-May. Although at my house they tend to bloom early but they finish early also. It loves prairie, pastures, hillsides and slopes to call home. It doesn't require much water to survive. I do notice that when I don't splash it down with the water hose from time to time that it will get spider mites.
I don't use any chemicals on it since bees love bluebonnets. It is also the larval host plant to the Elfin butterfly and the Hairstreak butterfly. The bluebonnets are susceptible to herbicides. So please don't spray anything on them or near them. If you do spray them, then that chemical can affect any of the bees and butterflies that drink its nectar. Please be careful.
You can add plants directly to your garden or you can easily sprinkle the seeds in the fall. What I do is every year after the plant has finished flowering I wait for the plant to die. The seed will mature on the dying plant and then when they are ready to come out of their pods they pop out and go flying to their new location. Yes the plant is ugly and doesn't look pretty at all but I will never have to buy more plants or seeds at the store again. It is that easy. Bluebonnets are a great wildflower to have in the garden. Every year I truly enjoy going out and watching the bees and butterflies hovering around the fragrant flowers. It is an awesome sight to see.
Monday, April 9, 2012
Trying To Get Rid Of Bermuda Grass
I have one main problem in my yard- Bermuda grass. We bought our house brand new. So when we did buy it there was no sod in the back yard. I liked that we had a clean slate and I was able to design the yard the way I wanted it to look. No problems there. When we got around to adding grass to the back yard we spent about $2,200 on St. Augustine grass. I thought at that price we were getting good grass but there was plenty of Bermuda grass that came with the St. Augustine. It has now been about 9 years that we have had our house and the Bermuda grass has made its way into my flower beds. It is literally taking over and I am so tired of digging it out that I am on the verge of getting Round up. Really I wouldn't buy that stuff. Round-up is horrible and I have recently read that they are now finding Round-up residue where it has never been sprayed before and also in the air. Did I say how bad Round-up is?
So I am now trying to find ways to organically get rid of it for good. The one thing that I have not got around to is making a 3-4 inch dead space (just dirt space) between the flower bed edging and the grass itself. So I will need to get to that soon. After that I will put a barrier deep in the ground at the edging so I can hopefully stop the Bermuda grass from coming in the flowers beds in the future. Then the next thing I will do is spray vinegar on the Bermuda grass without getting it on the other plants. I am going to try this at the hottest part of the day. Since I have a background in Horticulture I do know that the vinegar will only kill the top of the plant and not translocate to the roots of the plant. So I intend to do multiple sprayings of vinegar. I am going to experiment with this and find out what type of spray schedule is going to work best.
So far I really have no idea if this is going to work but at this point I am willing to try it because I don't want to have to dig up this plant any more. Wish me luck.
So I am now trying to find ways to organically get rid of it for good. The one thing that I have not got around to is making a 3-4 inch dead space (just dirt space) between the flower bed edging and the grass itself. So I will need to get to that soon. After that I will put a barrier deep in the ground at the edging so I can hopefully stop the Bermuda grass from coming in the flowers beds in the future. Then the next thing I will do is spray vinegar on the Bermuda grass without getting it on the other plants. I am going to try this at the hottest part of the day. Since I have a background in Horticulture I do know that the vinegar will only kill the top of the plant and not translocate to the roots of the plant. So I intend to do multiple sprayings of vinegar. I am going to experiment with this and find out what type of spray schedule is going to work best.
So far I really have no idea if this is going to work but at this point I am willing to try it because I don't want to have to dig up this plant any more. Wish me luck.
Friday, April 6, 2012
Need more Butterfly Food!!!
This year I have been in short supply of butterfly weed, which is the only plant that Monarchs will eat and lay their eggs on. I have had so many butterflies this year that I just can't seem to keep the plants around long enough for all the caterpillars. I have a good amount of butterfly weed that usually grows in my garden. I will only grow it for the Monarch butterflies. I don't care what it looks like after the caterpillars get finished with it. And honestly, it looks pretty bad. Nothing but stems and no leaves. Last year I didn't have hardly any butterflies. I probably had 4 or 5 the entire year. I am not sure if the number of butterflies was lowered because of the drought that we had here in Texas but I think it is a large part of it. Maybe there was not enough nectar plants for them. Also, I don't think there was enough wild butterfly weed out there for them to eat or lay eggs.
This year we have had a great spring with lots of rain and with that came lots of butterflies. My boys and I usually help raise the caterpillars inside our house in a terrarium because the red wasp will eat as many caterpillars as they can sink their teeth into. But we have had so many caterpillars that I have kept most of them outside on the host plants. I also have not seen any red wasps this year. Not sure why?
Six days ago I ran out of food for all the caterpillars. And I still had about 18 caterpillars that were still growing. So my oldest son and I went down to our favorite nursery, Enchanted Gardens in Richmond. We bought 4 more good sized butterfly weed plants. Brought them home and moved the remaining caterpillars onto the new plants. It only took them 3 days to devour them and we were out of food again. This time my youngest son and I went back to Enchanted Gardens and bought one more plant. We only had 7 caterpillars left to get to cocoon stage. Now we have 5 caterpillars left and one is getting ready to cocoon. We have only half of the last plant that we bought left. Two of those remaining caterpillars will stop eating within the next day or two. So I sit here and wonder if I will have enough food for the last few caterpillars. The good news is that all of the original plants that I have in the flower beds are all starting to leaf out. So I do have hope for the remaining few caterpillars. Keeping my fingers crossed. I don't want to keep going to the store to buy more butterfly weed because I tend to find new plants that I want to add to my garden. There is so much to choose from, I can never have enough plants.
This year we have had a great spring with lots of rain and with that came lots of butterflies. My boys and I usually help raise the caterpillars inside our house in a terrarium because the red wasp will eat as many caterpillars as they can sink their teeth into. But we have had so many caterpillars that I have kept most of them outside on the host plants. I also have not seen any red wasps this year. Not sure why?
Six days ago I ran out of food for all the caterpillars. And I still had about 18 caterpillars that were still growing. So my oldest son and I went down to our favorite nursery, Enchanted Gardens in Richmond. We bought 4 more good sized butterfly weed plants. Brought them home and moved the remaining caterpillars onto the new plants. It only took them 3 days to devour them and we were out of food again. This time my youngest son and I went back to Enchanted Gardens and bought one more plant. We only had 7 caterpillars left to get to cocoon stage. Now we have 5 caterpillars left and one is getting ready to cocoon. We have only half of the last plant that we bought left. Two of those remaining caterpillars will stop eating within the next day or two. So I sit here and wonder if I will have enough food for the last few caterpillars. The good news is that all of the original plants that I have in the flower beds are all starting to leaf out. So I do have hope for the remaining few caterpillars. Keeping my fingers crossed. I don't want to keep going to the store to buy more butterfly weed because I tend to find new plants that I want to add to my garden. There is so much to choose from, I can never have enough plants.
Wednesday, April 4, 2012
Mulch It Right
Mulching your flowers beds is one of the most important things you can add to your garden. By definition, mulching is when you place a layer of organic or inorganic material on top of the soil. Mulches can greatly improve the benefits of the internal soil structure while greatly enhancing the overall health of most plants, reducing their susceptibility to pests and environmental stresses. They can also prevent weeds, protect the plants roots from heat, cold, or drought, keep fruit clean, and reduce plant diseases by preventing water from splashing on the leaves and fruit of plants. And if that was not enough, mulches can also prevent soil erosion and add nutrients to the soil as they break down slowly.
So here is the ins and outs of mulching. It really is pretty simple to remember just a few pointers about mulching your flower beds. Mulch can come from many materials. Shredded pine bark, wood chips, leaves, grass clippings, and compost are all forms of mulch. My personal favorites are compost and/or native hardwood mulch. I don't like using the red mulches as they are dyed and I don't want anything that is not natural in my garden beds. I recommend putting down a 2-4 inch layer of mulch around your trees, shrubs, and garden plants. Please do not pile up the mulch around the stems and trunks of plants. I have actually seen mulch piled very high around the trunks of plants and trees and I just wanted to cringe.
Grass clippings can be used as a mulch. I love not having to go and buy my mulch and this is one way to do it. Simply wait to mow until your grass is between 2 and 4 inches high. Then mow off only the top 1/3 of the grass, and don't bag the grass clippings. The clippings will feed your soil and won't smother your grass. If there are too many clippings, you can rake the excess and use it to mulch the garden beds.
Mulches are essential for the overall health of your plants. Using mulch and/or compost will raise the soil nutrient level and enhance the physical structure to a point that the need for synthetic fertilizers is greatly reduced. This is not achieved quickly. You need to have patience to build up the soil. But it is soooo worth it.
So here is the ins and outs of mulching. It really is pretty simple to remember just a few pointers about mulching your flower beds. Mulch can come from many materials. Shredded pine bark, wood chips, leaves, grass clippings, and compost are all forms of mulch. My personal favorites are compost and/or native hardwood mulch. I don't like using the red mulches as they are dyed and I don't want anything that is not natural in my garden beds. I recommend putting down a 2-4 inch layer of mulch around your trees, shrubs, and garden plants. Please do not pile up the mulch around the stems and trunks of plants. I have actually seen mulch piled very high around the trunks of plants and trees and I just wanted to cringe.
Grass clippings can be used as a mulch. I love not having to go and buy my mulch and this is one way to do it. Simply wait to mow until your grass is between 2 and 4 inches high. Then mow off only the top 1/3 of the grass, and don't bag the grass clippings. The clippings will feed your soil and won't smother your grass. If there are too many clippings, you can rake the excess and use it to mulch the garden beds.
Mulches are essential for the overall health of your plants. Using mulch and/or compost will raise the soil nutrient level and enhance the physical structure to a point that the need for synthetic fertilizers is greatly reduced. This is not achieved quickly. You need to have patience to build up the soil. But it is soooo worth it.
Monday, April 2, 2012
April Gardening To-Do List
It is that time of the year to get lots of gardening chores tackled before it gets hot. And here in Houston it will get hot in a few weeks.
This year we did not have much in the way of winter. There were only a few days that we had freezes and even on those days it didn't freeze hard enough to freeze back many of the semi-tropical plants that usually die back to the ground every year. When this happens we have lots of lush growth early on in the season along with lots of bugs that my not get killed when we get a hard freeze. So with that said here is my to-do list for April.
1. If you haven't done so already, it is time to get rid of any dead limbs and leaves off of plants that may die back when it does freeze, such as the Giant Turk's Cap (Malvaviscus arboreus) and the hummingbird bush or firebush (Hamelia patans). I already have new growth that is about a foot high on these plants right now but you can still cut them back when you need to. I usually let these plants grow to their natural forms and they both get fairly big.
2. Cut back any of your spring flowering shrubs. The azaleas should be almost finished flowering this year, as well as the Bridal Wreath Spirea that I posted about on March 30. Spring flowering shrubs only bloom on old wood and need the rest of the year to create that old wood after you finish pruning. This chore is not necessary to do. You can leave these plants to grow naturally if you like. The bridal wreath spirea that I posted about has not been pruned in about 9 years and it looks beautiful.
3. It is time to fertilize. You can fertilize it all right now; the grass, trees and shrubs, flowers. So get to feeding. I will soon talk about what is the best fertilizers to put on the different types of vegetation.
4. You can also put mulch down in all the flower beds now. This will help deter some of the weeds that are coming up. Mulching can help keep the moisture on the soil for the plants. Another thing that mulch can do is to keep the soil cool during the summer months. Mulch is a really great think to add to your to-do list. If you don't get to it this chore now you can add it to the garden and beds any time of year.
5. Look out for the hummingbirds in April. They will make their spring migration stops in the Houston area starting the first week of April. Get those feeders cleaned and ready to go. And don't forget to take pictures while you are on your stake out of these great little creatures.
6. I have been planting seeds for all of my annual spring flowers and getting some vege seeds ready.
Here are just a few vegetable seeds that can be started in the Houston area in April:
Beans- both Bush Snap and Pole varieties through mid-April
Corn seed
Cucumber seed through April 30
Eggplant through May 1
Okra seed April-July
Peas, southern, seed April-May
Pepper plant; mid March-May 1
Radish, seed; Feb.-April
Squash, summer, seed; mid March-April
Tomato, plant; March, April
Watermelon, seed/plant; mid-March-May1
There are many things to do in the garden right now. So stop reading and get to work. That's what I am going to do right now. Just have fun and enjoy being in the outdoors.
This year we did not have much in the way of winter. There were only a few days that we had freezes and even on those days it didn't freeze hard enough to freeze back many of the semi-tropical plants that usually die back to the ground every year. When this happens we have lots of lush growth early on in the season along with lots of bugs that my not get killed when we get a hard freeze. So with that said here is my to-do list for April.
1. If you haven't done so already, it is time to get rid of any dead limbs and leaves off of plants that may die back when it does freeze, such as the Giant Turk's Cap (Malvaviscus arboreus) and the hummingbird bush or firebush (Hamelia patans). I already have new growth that is about a foot high on these plants right now but you can still cut them back when you need to. I usually let these plants grow to their natural forms and they both get fairly big.
2. Cut back any of your spring flowering shrubs. The azaleas should be almost finished flowering this year, as well as the Bridal Wreath Spirea that I posted about on March 30. Spring flowering shrubs only bloom on old wood and need the rest of the year to create that old wood after you finish pruning. This chore is not necessary to do. You can leave these plants to grow naturally if you like. The bridal wreath spirea that I posted about has not been pruned in about 9 years and it looks beautiful.
3. It is time to fertilize. You can fertilize it all right now; the grass, trees and shrubs, flowers. So get to feeding. I will soon talk about what is the best fertilizers to put on the different types of vegetation.
4. You can also put mulch down in all the flower beds now. This will help deter some of the weeds that are coming up. Mulching can help keep the moisture on the soil for the plants. Another thing that mulch can do is to keep the soil cool during the summer months. Mulch is a really great think to add to your to-do list. If you don't get to it this chore now you can add it to the garden and beds any time of year.
5. Look out for the hummingbirds in April. They will make their spring migration stops in the Houston area starting the first week of April. Get those feeders cleaned and ready to go. And don't forget to take pictures while you are on your stake out of these great little creatures.
6. I have been planting seeds for all of my annual spring flowers and getting some vege seeds ready.
Here are just a few vegetable seeds that can be started in the Houston area in April:
Beans- both Bush Snap and Pole varieties through mid-April
Corn seed
Cucumber seed through April 30
Eggplant through May 1
Okra seed April-July
Peas, southern, seed April-May
Pepper plant; mid March-May 1
Radish, seed; Feb.-April
Squash, summer, seed; mid March-April
Tomato, plant; March, April
Watermelon, seed/plant; mid-March-May1
There are many things to do in the garden right now. So stop reading and get to work. That's what I am going to do right now. Just have fun and enjoy being in the outdoors.
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